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Battambang Province
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Asia : Southeast Asia : Cambodia : Cardamom and Elephant Mountains : Battambang
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Ta Tambang Kro Nhong
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Battambang is Cambodia's second most populous city, and a popular tourist destination due to the many nearby places of interest. It is also the capital city of the province with the same name.
Get in
By plane
Battambang does have an airport, but it's been closed since the road to Phnom Penh was sealed.
By road
Buses and share taxis run to many
destinations, including Phnom Penh, Siem Reap (via Sisophon), and the Thai border at Poipet/Aranyaprathet (also via Sisophon) and Pailin.
The Phnom Penh - Battambang - Sisophon road is sealed and
well maintained, and the bridges are not prone to collapse (unlike their counterparts on the unsealed roads). Travelling by car, it takes around four hours to get to Phnom Penh, and just under an hour to
get to Sisophon. Buses take a little longer.
The infamous Poipet - Sisophon - Siem Reap road has finally been sealed. Getting from Sisophon to Poipet or Siem Reap by car is just under an hour,
and about double that by bus.
The Battambang to Pailin road is terrible, unsealed, dusty, and full of potholes. Now under reconstruction though and Paramount Bus Company has started a service
from Battambang.
By boat
Boats go to and from Siem Reap (for Angkor) daily. An interesting and very scenic journey along small rivers, the boats
thread their way through numerous charming floating villages and past dozens of towering cantilevered fishing net installations. It can take as little as four hours, or over twelve, depending on the time
of year (and hence the water level), however the time can be fairly accurately predicted by checking the time that the same boat arrived yesterday.
When the water level gets very low, the boats
cannot get all the way to Battambang and the journey is completed by minibus or pick-up.
By rail
There is a very slow, once-weekly train service
between Battambang and Phnom Penh via Pursat. The journey is scheduled to take 14 hours but may be much longer, even though the distance by rail is only 275 km. It costs US$5 one-way for foreigners.
Phnom Penh to Battambang : Saturdays, departs 06:20, arrives 20:00
Battambang to Phnom Penh : Sundays, departs 06:40, arrives 19:00
The train station is on the edge of the city centre (see
map above), a short walk from the central market.
Update 8/11/2008: The train between Battambang and Phnom Penh is no longer running due to a track upgrade.
Get around
See
Battambang is known for its statues which seemingly decorate every public place. Most are of animals (mythical and real) and divinities (also mythical and real?)
The most famous of these statues is on the main road in from Phnom Penh and is of an ancient Khmer King holding a stick which he used to quell rebellions in the Battambang area. The name of the
town / province comes from this legend.
The town also has a number of fine colonial buildings along the river including a very grand French era governors residence.
Around Battambang:
Phnom Sampeu, a hill with the killing caves of the Khmer Rouge, a few Buddhist caves and a monastery with two Stupas on the hilltop. Entry is US$2, covering also Wat Banan.
Wat Banan, the
so-called mini-Angkor wat, an impressive flight of stairs leads up to a dilapidated Angkor-type temple which is still in use as a buddhist shrine.
Wat Baydamram, a temple, where hundreds of fruit
bats live in trees under the protection of the monks.
Wat Ek Phnom, another Angkor-type temple ruin, about 15 km north west of Battambang. The road goes alongside lovely small rivers bordered by
trees and small villages and is in general a very nice area. Approaching Wat Ek Phnom you suddenly encounter a giant buddha statue in the wat. The grounds of the Wat also have an Angkorian era temple
which is in relatively good shape and with some interesting carvings.
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Wat Ek
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Several opportunities to explore villages exist just south of town. The Cultural village of Watkor, just a few km south of the town center has several "ancient wooden houses" from the early 20th century.
Further south are the agricultural villages of Kompong Seyma, and Ksach Puoy. For info call District Administration Battambang: 012.881.516/016.666.111
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Do
Take a ride on the bamboo train (the "norry"). A trip to the train can be booked in most hotels or arranged for with a motorbike/tuk-tuk
driver. Expect to pay additional for the train (a special "tourist charter" should cost no more than 6 USD per half-hour). Ask for an estimate of the price directly with the driver and get him to bargain
the price for you by linking his own pay to the price you will get for the "norry". Some drivers will cost you less but then drive you to more greedy "norry" drivers and you will end up forking
more money than initially planned. Do combine the trip to catch a bamboo train with a visit of the countryside (that is stop your driver on the way there).
Take a motorbike trip around the countryside and
visit some nice temples and enjoy the views.
Wander around the market and sample local dishes.
Take the cooking class at The Smoking Pot. Highly recommended by locals and The lonely Planet. Daily
courses priced at only USD$8.
Take a cooking course in a family house at Ch'Ngainh! Ch'Ngainh! (Meaning "Delicious"!). After doing shopping at the local market, go to a famillial house where the very
charming couple help you cook some delicious Khmer dishes. For 10 USD, you have a cooking lesson, marvelous time with those charming persons, a cooking book, a very good dinner and maybe some snake wine to drink !
You can reach Sambath at sambath_9@hotmail.com or by phone at 012 63 93 50, cellular 012 91 00 44. Ask for Sambath at the Royal Hotel.
Nary Kitchen, Svay Por Battambang (Opposite Holiday Guesthouse), ☎
012763950. A Brand new cooking class and the Cheapest in town. Using local ingredients to make your own delicious Khmer meal. Who can cook better than yourself ay? One block back from the Royal Hotel. edit
Eat
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The bamboo train near Battambang
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Buying ingredients
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You can get some great bread (by French standards!) for 1000 KHR a medium-size baguette up North, between the French cultural centre and the giant statue marking the entry in Battambang from the main interprovincial
road. The bread street sellers have elsewhere in town is of a much lower standard for the same price, the kind you find in Phnom Penh (baguette-shaped and sprinkled with sugar).
Bamboo Train Café & Bar -
brand new (opened end of October 2009) café and restaurant that definitely has potential to get a popular backpackers café and lounge. Relaxed atmosphere, delicious food and lovely staff that's incredibly friendly
and willing to receive feedback on how they're doing. Coming from the centre cross the new bridge and then it's on the right hand side after 200m (just after the fake Pizza Hut). GPS coordinates: N 13° 05.549' E
103° 12.178'. [2] Open 6:30 AM - 10:00 PM. Free wifi coming soon!
Smokin' Pot (Ph.3). Mains 3000-6000 KHR. Cooking school-cum-restaurant offering a good range of Khmer and Thai food. Vegetarian-friendly.
White Rose - almost opposite the Smoking Pot, has a huge menu, and some great fruit shakes. Not the most cosy place in town but still full of foreigners. The staff seems a bit stressed and not very warm. A plus
is that they're quick and remember everything as you ordered it.
Bus Stop Guesthouse, (on Street 2 next door to the White Rose Restaurant and around the corner from the Smoking Pot), [3]. The only restaurant
in town that makes a full English breakfast. Whether that's bacon and eggs, Heinz Baked Beans, pancakes and even Vegemite for the Aussies. Great food, great prices. The Bus Stop also do Western Pub meals. Huge
portions and imported ingredients means that the food is of the quality you would expect at home. They even have free WiFi so you can browse while you eat.
Gecko Cafe, (Street # 3, 1 block South of Psa Nath
Market). Nice atmosphere, limited but very tasty menu, free wifi.
Pulp, Street 2.5 (One Block back from White Rose). A real laid-back atmosphere, serving up Battambang's finest curries and real Pizza at good
prices. everything under 5 bucks, cheap drinks and good company.
Drink
Espresso Cafe, (Beside Hotel Royal, inner side of yellow art-deco market). Snappy
service -- food and drink -- with a smile. Great smoothies. A good family-run Khmer restaurant to support.
Pulp. Just around the corner from White Rose and Bus Stop, a great little bar/cafe that that has
real cappucinos and also sells the cheapest, quality books in town No used book over 4 bucks!
Sleep
A grand openning has just been happening for the
Bungalow (Restaurant and Guesthouse), in Battambang. The set in in the middle of all season flowers and greeny tropical fruit trees. Good for really relaxing atmosphere and very good western and Thai food.
Budget
Ancient House - homestay in Watkor village, a few km south of town, 100m south of Watkor temple. 012-363174. Talk with Madame Boun Roeung (who speaks some French but no English) about the possibility of
staying in her "Ancient House." Accommodation is simple, with foam mattresses on the floor. Other owners of ancient houses may also be open to this.
Hotel Chhaya, Road 3 south of the central
market, 012-733204. Very good hotel with clean en suite rooms, fan, two beds and cable TV. Many English speaking guides and motodop drivers hang around here. Rooms from US$4, rates are negotiable.
Hotel
Royal, on a side street west of the central market, 016-944955. A good option with a rooftop restaurant. Spacious rooms with bathroom, hot water and aircon around US$25, smaller rooms start around US$5 (clean
doubles with shared bathroom and toilets).
Golden River Hotel, is on Street 3 a few blocks down from Hotel Chhaya, just before the sign posted turn for the train station. Good clean hotel with the standard
facilities you will find elsewhere in Battambang. Staff are helpful and friendly, rates start at US$5.
Bus Stop Guesthouse, #149 Street 2 (next door to the White Rose Restaurant and around the corner from
the Smoking Pot), [4], tel. +855 (0)53 730 544, (email:info@busstopcambodia.com). Operated by an Australian man and his Khmer wife. Western Food and cold beer in the restaurant downstairs. Free WiFi access in the
rooms and downstairs for the public with the fastest internet in town. Up to date travel advice in native English. Room prices from $10-$20 (cheapest hot water rooms in town)
Mid-range
TEO Hotel, Road 3,
tel: 952288, (mobile) 012-857048. Very good value for money - from US$10 for an immaculately clean and well-maintained room with double bed, air-con and fan, hot water, TV, and mini-fridge. VISA and MasterCard
accepted. Internet. Indoor restaurant with a fair selection of Western dishes, and additional tables outside in a small garden.
Khemara Battambang Hotel [5], No 224, Old National Road No 5 | Roumcheck 4 Village,
Sangkat Rathanak. Phone: +855 53 732727, info@khemarahotel.com. GPS coordinates: N 13°05.526' E 103°12.289'. Beautiful hotel (outside as well as inside). Very friendly staff, funny guard who uses to salute the
guests. Very comfortable beds, clean rooms with internet access (LAN cable, but in some rooms a wifi connection from a network nearby is available), TV, air-con, fan and a fridge. $ 15,- per night for a double room.
Car parking possible.
Splurge
La Villa, [6]. Nicest accomodation in town, complete with swimming pool. Just across the river from the central market. Book ahead as it is often full. Rooms start from
US$50/night.
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